One of my first stops at a new volunteer destination is the local library. They have, so far, all been willing to grant a temporary library card when I tell them why I am in the area. The librarians are a wealth of information about the community and eager to tell me about their town. In the Non-fiction section on the New Arrivals shelf, at the Goliad County Library, I found a book called “Goliad- The Other Alamo” by William Bradle. As it turns out the author wrote about the very area where we are ‘jacks down’ for the next several weeks. The book tells an account of the very complex politics that were in play here during the pre-Civil-War years. I love serendipity, sometimes a book finds you. After reading the book, we waited for our friends, the Harrington’s, to arrive so we could tour the historic sites together. We spent one very full day soaking it all in.
The five-minute version of the history goes something like this. Texas, then a northern territory of Mexico called Tejas, was a sparsely populated area of nomadic tribes and newly arriving Europeans, doing their usual land grabbing and running off the “savages” who were there first. Mexico’s independence from Spain was won in a battle here, and soon the illegal immigrants (aka white people) formally declared Tejas for themselves. The battles that resulted in the United States acquiring Texas were fought here.
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Mission Esperitu Santo at Sunrise[/caption]In 1721 The Presidio La Bahi`a was built a half mile south of here. A year later Franciscan Monks established Espiritu Santo Mission, located in Goliad State Park, for the purpose of protecting and ‘civilizing’ the Aranama tribe who they felt needed protection from the raiding tribes. Our Lady of Loreto Chapel followed in 1779, built within the walls of the Presidio for the soldiers and their families to have a place to worship. It is one of the oldest active churches in the US, still holding Mass every Sunday.
Starting here on the Park grounds we toured the Mission complex and learned about life at the mission, saw some of the old ruins of foundations and wall still left from the original structure. In the 1930’s the Mission site became a CCC project and was restored to what it is today with great care and research into the architecture, contents and display of artifacts excavated from the site.
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La Bahia Presidio South Wall[/caption]La Bahi`a history is multi layered. General Zaragoza, who won Mexico’s independence from Europe, defeating French troops was born in a house there on the grounds. It has been rebuilt by the State Parks system and can be toured free of charge. In 1835 the Presidio was the location of the signing of Texas Declaration of Independence from Mexico that resulted in the famous Battle at the Alamo among other things. This is where I tuned in last winter. There were troops here led by General Fannin, who had been ordered to march to the Alamo to aid in defending it against Santa Anna’s troops. For, highly debatable reasons, he didn’t go and we all know how that turned out. Soon after, Sam Houston ordered him to march to Victoria and join other troops. He delayed several days because, unknown to Sam Houston, he had dispatched troops elsewhere, to defeat Mexican troops south of the presidio and try to make a name for himself.
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Fannin Battlefield Memorial site[/caption]On his way to Victoria they stopped in a field to rest and graze the horses. There, Mexican General Urrea, under Santa Anna’s command, caught up to them and Fannin’s troops eventually surrendered.
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Mass grave of Fannin' troops[/caption]They were marched back to Presidio LaBahi`a where they were executed. A mass grave with the remains of 342 soldiers is now a memorial. A rather somber place indeed.
One of the reasons we engaged in the wonderful life is the opportunity to completely immerse ourselves in an area. There is history and culture in this ten square mile area with a richness and density I have never experienced anywhere else. Descendants of those who lost their lives here, still live in the area. It is very emotional history for many people native to the area. It becomes clear when I talk to a local museum volunteers how passionate people are about the events that took place here. Another thing that strikes me is, being from the Midwest, an old building is 125 – 150 years old. Iowa is a relatively young state in terms of European settlement. To stand in a church over 300 years old walk around within fort walls and imagine the things that took place here, is an indescribable feeling for me. I highly recommend this area for a Texas vacation, if you like history.
The biggest irony to me speaks to the times we are in today. Illegal immigration is such a hot button issue for many. Illegal immigration of white people coming to Texas and causing trouble, committing crimes, stealing land and what have you is what started the whole uprising in the first place. Santa Anna was sent to drive the whites back to Louisiana and out of Mexico. Whites decided they wanted to stay and fought for and eventually won the claim they made to the land. Many Hispanic people here can trace their roots back many generations to this very area, because their families were here when it was still Mexico. Hispanics were here first, yet are still subjugated to white culture, making cultural difference and race a whole different notion in this part of Texas. Having majored in Sociology and Cultural Anthropology, I am fascinated with the social and cultural construct here. One could easily create an entire 3 credit history course on this small geographical area.
We have seven more weeks here to get to know locals and for me to digest all this history I have read about and toured in our time here. I will leave here with a very different notion of Texas culture than I grew up with as a mid-westerner only having the tip of the ice burg included in my American History education in primary school. The Alamo gets all the attention, but the real history is right here under my feet.
Oh yes, there are lots of birds here too. John and Cathy took me birding several times this week, more about that later.
Until next time…
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